A retaining wall in landscape design is an absolutely irreplaceable element that can not only decorate a site, but also divide it into zones. Therefore, we decided to consider the topic in more detail and tell readers how such a structure can be built with their own hands.

Retaining wall represents a certain emphasis, an obstacle and at the same time a rather original decoration of the dacha landscape. This landscape element is especially popular.

Today we will tell you how, without much effort and without spending serious money, you can build a wall that will not only form flower beds or an entire area of ​​various ornamental plantings, but also restrain the soil from landslides and unauthorized geoplasticity.

The retaining structure is installed in almost any place you need in your dacha, but it must consist of certain parts. This is the foundation that supports the entire structure, the body of the wall made of the material you have chosen, as well as a special drainage system that helps protect the main production material.

What materials are suitable for the job?

First of all, the material should be determined based on the landscape design and style of the site, using imagination and, of course, your own opinion. Next, you need to decide on the budget. Honestly, no matter what material you choose, the cost will not differ significantly unless it is the most expensive material and is not ordered from a professional team. Save money and do everything yourself, it will be much cheaper and more interesting.

Wooden retaining wall

By wood we mean thick logs that can be set vertically or horizontally into the ground to form a wall.

Logs are selected with a diameter of 20-30 cm, installed tightly to each other to create reliable support for the ground behind and an original appearance for the structure itself. For logs, a special trench is dug, at least 40-60 cm deep, depending on the height of the retaining wall. This installation depth will give serious strength to the wall, but it is worth taking into account the drainage layer and foundation.

In principle, you can install logs on an ordinary gravel bed, but it is simply necessary to treat them with special protection from moisture. To do this, you can take professional wood preservatives, or ordinary used machine oil, roofing felt, and so on.

The installation is very tight, depending on the design decisions, the logs are held together with reinforcement, clamps, crossbars, and so on. Afterwards, they are backfilled for stability, and on the back side a layer of materials is sprinkled to create drainage and ready-made soil for a flower bed or to form another area for plants.

Stone structure

This is a rather rare option, since the process of constructing such a structure is considered labor-intensive, and also expensive, since it is unlikely that you will be able to buy high-quality stone at a low price.

Work begins with drainage and foundation - the initial layers, which are laid in a specially dug trench along the line of the wall. After pouring the reinforced foundation (construction waste will also work for this - fittings, wire, bent electrodes, etc.) natural stone is laid on top of it. Most often, these are quartzite, granite, diabase and other rocks that are most suitable for this process.

You will have to choose the type of masonry, and here you can safely use dry or classic masonry.

Dry masonry occurs as standard, and the voids are filled with soil containing plant seeds - flowers, grasses, moss. If you decide to lay the stone on a cement mixture, then the voids should be finished with a special grout.

Gabion option

A popular option today. In their finished form, gabions are metal meshes of various shapes with stone material inside. If the gabion retaining wall is not high, then it can be installed without a foundation, simply on a well-cleared and prepared site. If the height is 1 meter or more, it will be necessary to pour a foundation with a gravel-sand cushion.

The containers are installed and tied together. Installation occurs sequentially, waking up with material. If you are using ordinary gravel, you don’t have to worry too much about making a wall, but if you want to get a more decorative appearance, you will need to carefully lay flagstone, granite and other materials along the front side, and sprinkle the rest of the container with inexpensive cobblestones, pebbles or the same gravel.

Brick construction

Brick walls are the same as ordinary ones, with the same requirements for the foundation and mortar for fastening the material, but in terms of rigidity and pressure from the inside, they are slightly different. Thus, if the wall is low, around half a meter, half a brick is enough; if it is from 50 cm to 100 cm, a brick; if the wall is more than a meter high, it is advisable to make reinforced masonry, one and a half bricks.

The foundation of the wall requires drainage and bandaging, especially for high walls. It will be necessary to lay a high-quality drainage system behind it, since brick especially does not like moisture.

Concrete structure

Pouring concrete walls is quite simple, especially for hereditary builders or regular readers of our site, because we have repeatedly worked with cement and foundations. A high-quality dressing, standard according to the requirements of the parameters of the construction of a foundation with drainage, formwork and high-quality mortar, is sufficient. It is also worth noting that a solid wall can be heavier than brick or wood, and therefore it is necessary to make the foundation stronger and wider.

Don’t forget about high-quality protection of the finished product from soil moisture, and therefore be sure to install a drainage system to maintain the integrity and rigidity of our structure.

Very often, concrete walls do not turn out to be the most attractive, and therefore, in order to comply with all the requirements of landscape design, it will be necessary to carry out decorative finishing. Here, use your own imagination as an assistant, which will dictate the necessary materials to you.

How to make drainage

It is not enough to fill the foundation trench with sand and gravel, pour a high-quality foundation and correctly place the landscape decoration and site zoning structure on it. It is very important to protect the wall on the back side from moisture, for which we need a high-quality drainage system.

At the moment, professionals in this field recommend that craftsmen install the following types of drainage systems:

• Underground drainage is a special perforated drainage pipe that is wrapped in geotextile and installed at the very base of the wall structure. Thanks to the pipe, water does not accumulate, but simply flows through it to any drainage point;
• Ground drainage is installed on the back side of the wall made of any loose material, which does not allow water to reach the surface of the structure material, but allows water to go down. This could be gravel or broken brick;
• Drainage with filtration holes in the wall can be made in a structure made of stone or concrete. To do this, it is necessary to leave only one vertical seam without fastening material in every second row of masonry. It is through these seams, which should be located every 1.5-2 m, that the water will escape.

The installation of retaining walls requires some attention, and therefore choose the material, fulfill all the requirements and do not forget about the most important thing that you want to do on the site - decorate the landscape. It is in this sequence and if you do everything correctly that you can achieve good results.

We build a retaining wall with our own hands (video)

Reviews and comments

Emir 01/06/2014

Everything is correctly stated in the article; for people who live in relatively flat areas, this may not be so relevant, but for people who have a dacha or house in a mountainous area like mine in Crimea, this is very important. Although even on flat terrain, a retaining wall can be used as a landscape element.

Igor 12/13/2014

The diagram very accurately and correctly shows how best to make a retaining wall. Although it is clear from the photographs that the conditions may be different, and not all of them have a classic retaining wall - in some parts it is just a wall with earth poured into it. or the slope is too small and it is just a wall that promotes leveling, that is, its support is relative. I have these myself.

Goshia 11/24/2016

A retaining wall must be installed if the site is located on the terrain. It can be built from red solid brick, 250 mm thick, from rubble stone, approximately the same thickness, or a little more. If it is possible to rent high-quality panel formwork, then you can make a retaining wall from monolithic reinforced concrete. Its thickness, in this case, must be at least 200 mm, and the concrete class should be at least B 7.5. The retaining wall should not be on the surface of the soil, but should be buried 500 - 600 mm into it.

Victoria 01/20/2017

I’m embarrassed to ask, how deep should the foundation be for a retaining wall 500mm high?

Elizaveta 06/21/2017

We have stove heating and burn a lot of wood every winter. Since we use only them for heating, the ash is pure wood. Not all of it, of course, but we collect some of the required amount in bags and scatter it in the spring when planting potatoes. This method can be considered environmentally friendly in the fight against beetleworm and other nasty things that affect young tubers.

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When choosing a place for a country house, garden or vegetable garden, future summer residents often give preference to flat areas where excavation work will require a minimum of effort. However, a retaining wall on a site with a slope can easily turn uneven terrain into advantages, and a little theoretical preparation will help you create a unique landscape with your own hands.

Buying a plot of land is a responsible decision. It depends on the terrain features:

• ease of use of the allotment;
• strength and cost of erected buildings;
• the area that can be allocated for garden plantings and vegetable beds.

A site dotted with ravines or located on a slope frightens inexperienced summer residents. To build a house or a small one, it will take a lot of time, effort and money to level the territory and protect it from landslides.

Purpose of retaining walls

Is it possible to avoid these problems? Landscape designers and experienced summer residents know how to turn the weaknesses of a site on rough terrain into strengths. It is only necessary not to destroy, but to consolidate the slopes. Why do you need a retaining wall?

If at the planning stage you provide for such structures made of stone, concrete, wood or other materials, you can do without significant labor costs.

Well-designed designs:

• preserve the natural charm of the site;
• protect the nutrient layer of soil from all types of erosion;
• will help organize a terrace system of ridges and flower beds, which will optimize the territory and divide it into functional zones.

Low retaining walls on a site with a slope, at the request of the owner, can turn into a base for a staircase or become. Protective structures look great as a frame for a flower garden or a secluded recreation area.

Retaining wall materials

In open spaces, plants are widely used to combat wind and water erosion. Trees and shrubs with tenacious root systems weave around the slopes, preventing ravines from growing, changing the landscape and losing fertile soil.

In a limited area of ​​the dacha, such use of perennials is not a very good solution. Plants not only take up a lot of precious space, but also shade a significant area. And you will have to wait for more than one year for them to grow up. It is much easier and more profitable to use traditional building materials for constructing retaining walls at the dacha:

• brick;
• natural stone of different types;
• concrete;
• tree.

They are great for building a retaining wall on your site with your own hands. However, when calculating the structure, you need to remember that the wall must stand for more than one year, withstanding:

• the impact of moisture entering the soil;
• own weight of the structure;
• soil weight at any time of the year;
• annual temperature fluctuations and the influence of other external factors.

Each option has its own specifics, pros and cons, as well as common features. This applies to the installation of supports, except for the wall, which includes a reliable foundation and drainage that ensures the drainage of excess moisture.

Wooden retaining wall

If the design of the site and the house shows features of a “rustic” style and emphasizes the connection with nature, a wooden retaining wall is an excellent choice. The easiest and most reliable way is to build a dense palisade from vertically standing logs tightly fitted to each other, the lower part of which is dug into the ground and rests on a cushion of crushed stone.

To strengthen the slopes, strong logs of selected thickness are suitable, which are pre-dried and treated with compounds to protect against pests and rot. When choosing a material, you need to take into account that a third of a solid wall should be underground.

Work on constructing a retaining wall at the dacha begins with laying trenches. They are dug 10–15 cm deeper than the underground part of the logs, and their width is 20 cm greater than their diameter. This is necessary to create a foundation and lay waterproofing.

The gravel cushion at the bottom of the trench is compacted, then prepared logs are installed on it. You can fasten them together using wire, self-tapping screws or nails of suitable length. Filling with sand, broken bricks or crushed stone helps to maintain a vertical position in the ground. Heavy, tall structures are best fixed using a sand-cement mixture.

To prevent contact of the tree with wet soil, the back of the wall is insulated with a sheet of roofing felt or other similar material. The gap between the structure and the soil is filled with drainage, and pipes are installed to drain moisture.

The denser, heavier the soil and the higher the wall, the more massive and stronger it should be. Incorrect design calculations can cause weakening of the structure. Special measures to strengthen retaining walls will help avoid collapse.

A horizontal “tyn” made of wood is constructed in a similar way. The role of supports for it is played by pillars dug vertically at equal intervals.

How to make a retaining wall from stones

Boulders rolled by water and wind, angular crushed stone, pliable limestone and incredibly hard basalt. These materials are not only durable, but also fit perfectly into any landscape. It is not surprising that a stone retaining wall on a sloping site is one of the most popular options.

Depending on the design, purpose, type of soil and the stone chosen for construction, the following is used:

• dry masonry with filling the spaces between the elements with soil;
• traditional cement mortar for holding stones together.

Before making a retaining wall from cobblestones, prepare the foundation for the structure. First, they dig a trench under the foundation, construct the formwork, and then fill it with liquid concrete so that there is still 15 cm left to the ground level.

In order for the base to guarantee the strength of the heavy support, it is made three times wider than the wall, and after pouring it is allowed to stand and harden for several days.

A self-built retaining wall made from boulders can be vertical or slightly sloping. The first row is laid from the largest stones, then the cobblestones are selected in size and shape so that the wall is as dense and durable as possible.
The space between the stones and the slope is filled with drainage.

Before making a retaining wall from stones held together with mortar, it is better to wash the cobblestones. This will significantly improve the adhesion of the material and give the structure additional strength.

Rubble stone is increasingly being used to strengthen slopes. Pieces of heterogeneous size and shape are not easy to fasten together. Therefore, in the construction of a retaining wall made of rubble with your own hands, gabions will become.

These are container-like structures made of durable metal mesh. They greatly simplify labor-intensive work; depending on the size of the cells, they are suitable for both large stones and crushed stone. Individual gabions are fastened together with wire, and roofing felt or geotectile is laid between the wall and the ground.

Brick retaining wall on a sloping site

Laying a brick retaining wall is not much different from building the wall of a house. The strength of the structure is ensured by the concrete foundation; the thickness of the structure is chosen based on its height, climatic conditions and the characteristics of the slope that is to be strengthened and decorated.

For example, for a height of half a meter, a half-brick masonry is sufficient, but for a support above a meter it is better to lay out one and a half bricks, not forgetting about drainage. The tubes are laid at equal intervals between the first and second layers of brick.
The space between the wall and the slope being strengthened is filled with crushed stone.

Building blocks are a good alternative to durable but expensive bricks. They are not only cheaper, but also larger, which makes work easier and faster.

With a properly constructed foundation, a do-it-yourself retaining wall made from blocks is very strong, but less decorative. But such a structure can be decorated with facing stones or tiles.

How to make a concrete retaining wall correctly

Concrete structures are a kind of standard of strength. Such retaining walls will help retain large volumes of soil and give the landscape solidity and monumentality.

How to make a concrete retaining wall correctly? In order for the design to meet expectations, for it:

• prepare a trench for the foundation,
• a cushion of crushed stone is poured onto the bottom;
• reinforced with a metal rod;
• formwork is made, filled with concrete mixture.

A mandatory element of a self-made concrete retaining wall is drainage. The cavity remaining between the structure and the slope is filled with crushed stone, broken brick or gravel. This layer prevents soil erosion during rainy periods and when snow melts. And tubes brought out through a layer of concrete remove excess moisture.

To hide the monotonous gray color, designers suggest using finishing tiles, natural stone or living climbing plants. Treating the surface with kefir allows you to visually age concrete. Lactic acid fungi and bacteria promote the growth of moss, which helps blend the wall into the landscape.

Retaining walls in the garden - video

To understand what retaining walls will look like in , photos of their implementations taken in other areas will help in the best possible way. But in addition to their appearance, it is worth knowing how they are created in order to understand what difficulties can be encountered when designing them, and what site problems can be solved with their help.

Design options and the purpose of their installation on the site

Retaining walls occupy a special place. They should not be underestimated, since in some cases they can look even more successful than and. Moreover, they can combine well with flower beds, creating a kind of hanging garden.

Objects can be made entirely from, but their functionality is quite limited due to obvious reasons, so more often natural stone is used as a decorative component, and the base is still made from bricks, concrete or reinforced concrete slabs. In this case, either ready-made products can be used as a basis, or they can be created on site from scratch based on available components.

The peculiarity of this method is that all meshes used must be the same size and compatible shape. It is also advisable to use stones from one deposit throughout the entire area.

The best option is considered to be metal mesh with a polymer coating as a base. It will protect the structure from corrosion and will allow you to keep the wall in its original form for a long period.

Full walls and fences

If time resources allow more, you can make a more attractive wall, but no less functional wall. The base will be a concrete or reinforced concrete slab cast on site. Under it you need to create from polypropylene pipes and crushed stone.

To create the body of the wall, you will need collapsible formwork, and when creating high and multi-level structures with steps, also. The wall that has frozen the next day can be freed from formwork and decorated according to your own plans - tiles, wild or etc. But there is another interesting option that can be implemented on your site.

This method is most suitable for those who do not have sufficient funds to purchase wild stone, and it is not possible to find such a construction option nearby. In this case, fresh, barely set concrete composition can be textured to look like stone.

This is done with the help of a trowel, which is used to mark future cobblestones. Each of them should have its own unique size, shape and position. Based on the markings, artificial seams are created, along which grooves are created on the concrete surface.

After hardening, the concrete can be additionally treated with metal brushes to create the effect of stone, wash off the dust and, after the surface has dried, paint the surface and open it with waterproof facade varnish. For masonry, it is better to build it using not a concrete solution, but a special glue designed for gluing stones. It is sold in the form of a dry mixture, which is diluted with water to the desired consistency.

Advice: the solution should not be liquid, so as not to leave streaks and other marks on the finished part of the wall. It is very difficult to remove them, and they look unpresentable.

It is important to lay the adhesive in such a way that it does not reach the edge of the wall by 2-3 cm. If after installation it is still visible, the excess will have to be removed manually.

Another important point when creating walls is the high-quality preparation of materials. For example, stone is difficult to connect with each other due to the large amount of dust and fragments. Therefore, it is advisable to rinse it with plenty of water under pressure and only then use it.

The most successful retaining walls are built into areas located on slopes, regardless of what part they are located in. They cope equally well with the mission entrusted to them if the site is located at the top of a hill, in its middle part, or even in a lowland. Moreover, in each case they will perform different functions.

Such walls work well in combination with steps; they can act as an excellent basis for benches, and can also be used as delimiters of zones on the site. They will help not only to advantageously play with non-standard terrain, but also to create it from scratch on a completely flat area. This can be done both if there is only one wall, and if a whole cascade of them is created.

The last, but not least, advantage of such an element may be the possibility of creating a real fence, the basis of which will be the same wall extending beyond the boundaries of the site. Use such an engineering structure on your site, and you will be able to appreciate all its advantages.

The retaining wall is designed to prevent the destruction of slopes and the washing away of fertile soil. In addition to its purely practical role, such a structure is widely used in landscape design to create a multi-level relief on a site, zoning a garden, and decorating flower beds.

There are many types of retaining walls made from different materials. Wood is considered one of the budget options. Construction of a wooden retaining wall is quite simple and does not require professional skills. You will need some basic woodworking skills and knowledge of basic tools.

How to choose a location for a wood retaining wall

In principle, any place is suitable, except those where it is very damp. Wood deteriorates very quickly in a humid environment. Wetlands, areas of spring flooding of rivers and streams, places of high groundwater - here it is better to choose stone or concrete rather than wood.

In addition, wooden retaining walls are not made on steep slopes, where the load on the wall can be large. Wood is not as durable a material as concrete.

Advantages and Disadvantages of a Wooden Retaining Wall

The main advantages of a wooden retaining wall include:

• Relative cheapness;
• Decorative;
• Environmental friendliness;
• Ability to do all the work yourself;

What material should I use for a retaining wall?

Weird question. Of course, a tree! But it can be both logs and lumber. Most often, a solid wooden beam is used. It can be ordered at any hardware store. For low decorative walls, thick boards (at least 45mm) are also suitable.

The cost of materials can be minimized if you use trunks and thick branches of old trees cut down on the site. A retaining wall can be built from such material if short logs are installed vertically. Fruit tree trunks are never perfectly straight. But the height of a decorative retaining wall is usually no more than half a meter. Considering that part of the log will be buried in the soil, it is clear that sections of 40-90 cm in length will be required. By carefully examining the available waste, you can always select and prepare suitable fragments.

Horizontal laying or vertical?

The choice of installation method depends on several factors, the main ones being the length of the existing logs and whether the future wall should have roundings. If the logs or boards are long, then horizontal laying is preferable. Such a retaining wall is built much faster, it is stronger and, as a rule, more durable.

When planning a wall of complex shape, semicircular or zigzag, for example, choose a vertical installation. The same method is more suitable for construction from any waste of different lengths and thicknesses.

Protecting wood from destruction

The tree is susceptible to rotting. In addition, it is often damaged by various insects. In order to extend the life of a wooden retaining wall, the material should be treated with antiseptic agents, as well as the lower part should be burned or coated with hot bitumen or waste machine oil.

Creosote is often used to protect wood from rotting in the ground. It protects against rot and is also great for repelling insects. Copper or iron sulfate has proven itself to be excellent. Apart from this, there are many other modern chemicals used to impregnate poles.

How to build a wooden retaining wall with your own hands

Wooden retaining walls are usually low and are built without a foundation. Therefore, it is important to do the following:

• Thoroughly compact the soil and gravel backfill to avoid uneven deformation of the soil in the future;
• Constantly check with a level the accuracy of the beam installation horizontally and vertically;
• Fasten the bottom row of beams to the ground using reinforcing bars so that the wall does not slide down the slope;
• Secure the retaining wall with a hill or fill soil using an anchor - a T-shaped beam, so that it does not tilt or bend under the weight of the soil.

How to make a retaining wall from horizontal beams

Step 1. Site marking. This is done using a long cord and stakes. The cord indicates the height of the retaining wall along the entire perimeter. This is necessary for accurate calculation of materials and determination of horizontal and inclined sections.

Step 2. Preparing the trench. A trench 30 cm deep is dug along the entire perimeter of the retaining wall and the soil is compacted.

Step 3. Gravel backfill. A layer of gravel, crushed stone, and pebbles is poured into the trench to half its height (15 cm). Then the bedding is leveled and compacted.

Step 4. Laying the bottom beam. At a distance of 30 cm from the edge, a hole is drilled for the entire height of the beam to install the reinforcement rod. The timber is laid on the bedding so that the hole is closer to the edge of the wall.

Carefully check with a level the horizontal position of the timber along the length and width. Having achieved the desired position of the beam, they drive reinforcement into the drilled hole to fix the beam.

Step 5. Laying the first row. Continue laying the timber in the first row of the wall, carefully controlling the horizontalness of each new segment. Secure with reinforcement as necessary. As a rule, it is enough to fix the beginning and end of a beam or log in this way. If there is a significant length, a large load on the wall, or unstable, loose soil, fastening is done more often.

The segments can be fixed with vertical posts made of timber, deeply (not less than the full height of the wall) buried in the soil. They are usually installed on the back side, which is covered with soil. Sometimes the posts are made on both sides.

Step 6. Laying the second row of the wall body. Each subsequent row is laid staggered so that the joints of the beams overlap. In the corners, the width of the overlap is determined by the dimensions of the beam, and along straight sections of the wall, the length of the segments is selected so that the overlap is at least 120 cm.

The upper and underlying beams are fastened with wood screws, which are screwed in with a screwdriver. The length of the screws is chosen so that it matches or is as close as possible to twice the height of the beam.

Step 7 Drainage device. Between the hill and the body of the wall I lay geotextiles so that the material covers the gravel backfill. The upper part of the geotextile is temporarily laid on the slope, fixed with stones or other objects. A perforated drainage pipe with a diameter of 10 cm is laid on a layer of gravel covered with geotextile to drain rainwater.

After laying the pipe along the entire perimeter of the trench behind the body, the walls are covered with a layer of gravel and wrapped in geotextiles. This protects the drainage pipe holes from becoming clogged with soil, therefore, you do not have to constantly monitor the condition of the drainage and clean clogged pipes.

Step 8 Laying the third row. Carry out in the same way as the second row, making sure that the necessary overlap of the joints of the timber is ensured, and carefully treating the places of fresh cuts.

Step 9 Installation of T-shaped anchors. Such anchors are needed to ensure that the wall does not bend or tilt under the weight of the earth from the hill. For anchors you need to dig grooves in the slope. If the wall is made on level ground to artificially create a relief, then the anchors are laid directly on the ground. The anchor is knocked down from scraps of timber. Its length is usually about one and a half meters, and the short side is half a meter. Two holes are drilled along the short side for the reinforcement, in the same way as was done for the outer beams of the first row. The two parts of the beam are fastened together with self-tapping screws.

After the narrow end of the anchor is perfectly aligned with the third row of the wall, it is fastened to the lower level with two self-tapping screws. Then fix the anchor on the ground with two reinforcing bars.

Step 10 Laying subsequent rows of beams. Using the technology already described, the construction of the upper tiers of the wall is carried out. After reaching the desired height, soil is backfilled over the drainage layer between the wall and the hill, as well as trenches with anchors are backfilled. The soil is slightly compacted.

Step 12 Decorating a retaining wall. Upon completion of construction, the area in front of the supporting wall is usually covered with mulch from tree bark with a layer of 5-10 cm. The wall must stand for some time (several weeks) before plants are planted. Rain and sun will test the wall's strength, and the soil will settle. Plants are planted only when there is no doubt that nothing will have to be redone.

How to make a retaining wall from vertical beams

Retaining walls made from short vertical logs or scrap lumber are easy to construct and inexpensive. True, more time is spent on them.

Step 1. Preparing logs or beams. For the wall, even parts of the log are selected, the diameter of the trunks is usually up to 20 cm. Their size depends on the design of the retaining wall, but it is important to remember that the logs or beams must be buried in the soil by about half their length. There are two construction options:

• all the logs are buried halfway deep, the wall is reliable and strong, it looks like a dense row of posts driven into the ground;
• only some logs are deeply buried and reinforced (holding the entire wall), the rest end at the level of the gravel cushion (the design is like a wooden fence on “posts”); This option is only suitable for a low decorative wall.

The lower part of the beam or log (the one that will be driven into the ground) is treated to prevent rotting - you can use either special impregnations, machine oil, or heated bitumen.

Step 2. Site marking. This is done, as in the first version of horizontal laying, using a long cord and stakes. The cord indicates the height of the retaining wall along the entire perimeter. When the beams are oriented vertically, it is often not necessary to strictly maintain the horizontal. Columns of different heights sometimes look more picturesque.

Step 3. Preparing the trench. Along the entire perimeter of the retaining wall, a trench is dug 15-20 cm deeper than the planned height of the entire wall. If the wall is supported by supporting logs, then deeper holes are dug under them in the right places. The soil is compacted.

Step 4. Gravel backfill. A layer of gravel, crushed stone, and pebbles (about 25 cm) is poured into the trench. Then the bedding is leveled and compacted.

Step 5. Installation of the end beam. The outer beam is driven into the ground strictly vertically, the height of the future wall is controlled. It is reinforced with large pebbles, fragments of brick, and stones.

Step 6. Installation of the following bars or “columns”. Each new beam is driven into the soil next to the previous one or at strictly calculated intervals (if these free spaces are filled with short cuttings). The correct installation is checked vertically and along the height of the wall itself.
Step 6. Fastening the wall using horizontal strips. Horizontal strips are fastened with self-tapping screws at the bottom of the wall. Their thickness is selected depending on the required strength of the retaining wall (usually 25-60mm). Sometimes, for reliability, 2 rows of such planks are made. If the wall has a complex configuration, then the slats are short. The slats give the structure rigidity. As a rule, they are installed on the side that will be covered with soil.

Step 7 Filling gaps with short pieces of timber(performed only for the second wall option). The short parts are aligned in height and fastened with self-tapping screws to the horizontal strips.

Step 8 Drainage device. This is done in the same way as when laying timber horizontally.

Step 9 Installation of T-shaped anchors. This is rarely done, only if the wall must withstand heavy loads. The anchors are attached to horizontal strips, which in this case must be of sufficient thickness and strength.

Also useful to read

During the construction of various types of buildings in areas with complex terrain (beams, ravines, etc.), the need for a retaining structure often arises. Such a strengthening structure has one main task - to prevent the collapse of soil masses. The article will discuss the construction of retaining walls.

• Decorative- effectively hide small differences in ground in the surrounding area. If the levels do not differ much and, accordingly, the height of the wall is low (up to half a meter), then it is installed with a slight depth of up to 30 cm.
• Fortifying perform the main function of restraining soil masses from sliding. Such structures are erected when the slope of the hill exceeds 8°. With their help, horizontal platforms are organized, thereby expanding the usable space.

Retaining wall photo

Design of retaining walls

Regardless of its purpose, a retaining wall has 4 elements:

• foundation;
• body;
• drainage system;
• drainage system.

The underground part of the wall, drainage and drainage serve to implement technical standards, and the body serves aesthetic purposes. In height they can be low (up to 1 meter), medium (no higher than 2 meters) and high (over 2 meters).

The rear wall of the structure can have the following slope:

• steep (with direct or reverse slope);
• flat;
• recumbent.

The profiles of the fortification walls are varied, mainly rectangular and trapezoidal. The latter structures, in turn, may have different slopes of the edges.

Effective loads on retaining walls

When choosing a material, and, accordingly, a foundation for raising walls, they are guided by the determination of the loads that act on the structure.

Vertical forces:

• own weight;
• top load, that is, weight pressing on the top of the structure;
• the backfill force acting on both the wall itself and part of the foundation.

Horizontal forces:

• soil pressure directly behind the wall;
• frictional force at the points of adhesion between the foundation and the soil.

In addition to the main forces, there are also periodic loads, these include:

• wind force, this is especially true when the structure is over 2 m high;
• seismic loads (in seismic hazard zones);
• vibration forces act in places where a road or railway line passes;
• water flows, particularly in lowlands;
• swelling of the soil in winter, etc.

Stability of retaining walls

The construction of low retaining walls is carried out largely for decorative purposes; they do not require careful calculation of stability. An increase in this property is indicative of retaining engineering structures.

You can prevent walls from moving or overturning by applying the following measures:

• significantly reduces soil pressure on the rear edge; a small slope designed towards a hill;
• The side facing the ground is made rough. Protrusions are made in stone, brick, and block masonry, and chipping is done in monolithic retaining walls;
• a properly organized drainage system prevents erosion of the structure;
• the presence of a console in the front part of the wall provides additional stability, as it distributes part of the soil load;
• lateral (vertical) pressure is reduced by filling hollow materials (expanded clay) between the rear wall and the existing soil;
• For solid walls made of heavy materials, a foundation is required. For clayey soil, it is advisable to use a strip-type foundation; for weak soil (sandy, especially quicksand) - a pile foundation.

Construction of a retaining wall

As for the material, its choice is based on many criteria, such as the height of the structure, water resistance, resistance to aggressive environments, durability, availability of building materials and the possibility of mechanizing the installation process.

Brick retaining wall

• When calculating brick retaining walls, a reinforced foundation is provided. Decorative qualities can be enhanced by using bricks that differ in size or color from the elements of the main masonry. A low wall (up to 1 meter) is laid out independently. In cases where increased load is implied, you should resort to the services of professionals.

• For the work, ordinary red burnt brick or clinker with a high strength and moisture resistance coefficient is used. As a rule, a strip foundation is required for the construction of retaining walls.
• The width of the ditch for the base is equal to triple the width of the wall, that is, if construction is planned with one brick (25 cm), then this parameter will be equal to 75 cm. The depth should be at least 1 m. But the bottom is filled with a 20-30 cm layer of gravel or crushed stone , then a layer (10-15 cm) of sand, each backfill of material is compacted.
• The formwork is knocked down, its upper part should be 15-20 cm below ground level. For reinforcement, reinforcement bars are used, which are laid on broken brick or rubble stone. In any case, they should not just lie on a sand and gravel bed. Next, concrete grade 150 or 200 is poured.
• The clinker is placed in a dressing on the solution. The second row provides for the laying of drainage pipes Ø50 mm. When installing, ensure that the pipes are inclined towards the front of the edge; the recommended distance between them is 1 meter. It is important to monitor the movement of the seams. To prevent this from happening, you can use half bricks.
• It is worth noting that masonry with one brick is possible for the construction of walls up to 60 cm; for higher structures it is recommended to build with one and a half, two bricks, with the expansion of the lower part of the wall. Thus, a structure resembling a console is obtained.

Stone retaining wall

• Natural stone, like its artificial counterpart, is distinguished by high aesthetic properties. In addition, the appearance of the finished wall allows it to harmoniously fit into the surrounding landscape, creating a single ensemble with nature.

• Here, both dry and wet methods of laying the material can be used. The first option is more labor-intensive and requires some skill, since it is necessary to adjust the stone to size, ensuring optimal fit to each other.
• The base for a stone retaining wall is made in the same way as for brick. A strip foundation is carried out followed by laying stone. If the construction of the wall is carried out without the use of mortar, then the seams are filled with planting material or garden soil. Later, plants with fibrous root systems are planted between the stones. As they develop, they will significantly strengthen the structural elements.

• In this case, you can organize the drainage system using a simplified method - leave 5 cm gaps between every 4th and 5th stone in the first row.
• Stone walls are recommended for the construction of structures no higher than 1.5 m.

Concrete retaining walls

• Such a monolithic structure is made using wooden formwork or bored piles.
• Factory reinforced concrete retaining wall
• Installation of a factory-made slab is carried out using lifting equipment. It can be cantilevered or buttressed. To install finished products, a foundation is not needed in dense soil. It is enough to dig a trench slightly wider than the size of the base of the slab or console.

Prefabricated retaining walls photo

• Gravel (crushed stone) and sand are laid at the bottom in layers of 15-20 cm. Thorough compaction is ensured by abundant watering. Reinforced concrete slabs are installed strictly vertically. They are connected to each other by welding reinforcement embedded elements. Next, a longitudinal drainage system is installed and the space is filled with soil.
• A reinforced concrete supporting wall on piles is recommended on weak (unstable) soils. The distance between the piles depends on the length of the slab; they can be located every 1.5, 2 or 3 meters. The diameter of the piles is usually from 300 to 500 mm.

DIY concrete retaining wall

• Greater stability of the wall is given by the console, made with a slope (10°-15°) towards the embankment. If we take a wall 2.5 meters high as an example, then the height of the underground part of the structure will be 0.8-0.9 m, and the width of the body will be 0.4 m.
• For the formwork, a trench is dug 1.2 m wide (here an allowance of 30 cm is provided on the front side and 50 cm for the rear edge) and 1.3 m deep (taking into account the organization of the sand and gravel cushion). The required slope is achieved by manually excavating the soil; this parameter is checked both when installing the formwork and when pouring it with concrete. If necessary, the tilt is adjusted.

• The base must be reinforced both longitudinally and vertically. The height of the rods protruding from the concrete should be at least half a meter. Allow the sole to gain strength; for concrete this period is about a month. It is not recommended to carry out any work on the sole before this time.
• For the convenience of constructing formwork for the body of the wall, moisture-resistant plywood of standard size 2440x1220x150 mm is taken. For one workpiece you will need 3 sheets, 2 of which will be used for full edges, and one plywood should be cut to the appropriate width for 2 sides.

• In subsequent work, one side wall is not used, since it serves as the wall of the previous part of the structure. Seam divergence between elements can be prevented through reinforcement. In this case, after pouring the material, holes are drilled in the side part and metal rods are inserted. They can be placed in a checkerboard pattern 40-50 cm apart from each other with a 30-40 cm exit from the wall body.
• Metal corners are used to connect the edges of the frame, since the weight of the concrete intended for pouring is high. Additional reinforcement will be 50x50 mm bars, which are nailed along the perimeter of the formwork. For reliability, spacers should be placed on three sides.
• If desired, the concrete surface can be decorated with natural or artificial stone.

• Blocks made of foam concrete, expanded clay concrete, gas or cinder blocks greatly facilitate the work and reduce construction costs. But the strength characteristics of such a wall will be an order of magnitude lower. In addition, masonry made from such material does not have an attractive appearance.

Wooden retaining wall

From the point of view of landscape design, wood is optimally suited for these purposes, but long service life is not its strongest point. To increase resistance to aggressive environments, considerable effort will have to be made through repeated treatment with impregnating agents.

In the design of a retaining wall, logs can be positioned either horizontally or vertically. There is no big difference regarding strength characteristics here. This material is used for the construction of walls not exceeding 1.5 m in height. To prevent rotting of the buried part of the log, it is necessary to burn it or treat it with liquid bitumen.

Vertical arrangement of logs in a retaining wall

• The length of the logs can be different, it all depends on the height difference. For stability, they are buried to a depth equal to 1/3 of the total length of the beam, so if this parameter is 2 m, then the dug part will be 60-70 cm.
• Installation of calibrated wood is carried out in a pre-dug trench. A 15 cm layer of crushed stone is poured into the bottom and compacted. The logs are placed as a solid wall, close to each other, strictly observing the vertical. Fastening is done using wire or nails driven in at an angle.

• Maximum stability of a log wall is achieved by filling the trench with a sand-cement mixture. The back side of a kind of tine is covered with a sealing material (roofing felt, roofing felt, etc.), after which it is backfilled with soil.

Horizontal arrangement of logs in a retaining wall

• Support pillars are dug in every 1.5-2 or 3 m; the more often they are located, the stronger the retaining wall will be. The wood used is necessarily treated with antiseptic agents.

Horizontal fastening can be done in several ways:

• Longitudinal grooves are pre-cut on the pillars on two opposite sides into which horizontal elements will be tightly inserted. In this case, the diameter of the supporting logs must be larger than the beams intended for transverse position;
• the second option involves fastening logs from the back side of the posts. In this case, the first beam is laid on the ground, so it is recommended to lay waterproofing material in advance. The connection of horizontal logs to the supports is done with wire and/or nails.

Gabion retaining wall

• To install mesh structures, it is enough to level the surface and have coarse crushed stone (up to 150 mm) or small river boulders available to fill the sections. The main advantages of gabions are their flexibility and water permeability, which allows you to do without installing a drainage system.
• These wire boxes are simply assembled, then placed on level ground and covered with river or quarry stones. The following blocks are mounted using the same method. The sections are fastened together with wire with an anti-corrosion coating. This is a convenient method when you need to create many corner retaining walls.

• If you fill soil between the stones and sow plant seeds, then in a few years the wall will acquire an attractive appearance and blend organically into the surrounding landscape.

Retaining wall calculation

Before making a retaining wall, it is important to carefully consider all the nuances. Otherwise, illiterate calculations and negligent attitude to construction standards can lead to collapse.

Such walls no more than 1.5 meters high can be erected on their own. For the size of the sole, a coefficient of 0.5-0.7 multiplied by the height of the wall is taken. You can calculate the ratio of wall thickness to its height based on the type of soil:

• dense soil (limestone, quartz, spar, etc.) - 1:4;
• medium-density soil (shale, sandstone) - 1:3;
• soft soil (sand-clay particles) - 1:2.

If the height of the wall is large and construction is planned on soft soils, then you should turn to the services of specialized organizations. Calculations will be made in accordance with the requirements of SNiP.

In this case, many factors will be taken into account and the following calculations will be made based on the limit state of the retaining walls:

• stability of the position of the wall itself;
• soil strength, its possible deformation;
• the strength of the wall structure and the crack resistance of its elements.

Calculations for passive, active and seismic soil pressure will also be performed; clutch accounting; groundwater pressure and so on. The calculation is carried out taking into account maximum loads and covers the operational, construction and repair periods of the wall.

Of course, you can also use online calculators specially designed for these purposes. But you need to know that such calculations will be advisory in nature. Absolute accuracy of calculations is not guaranteed.

Drainage system for retaining wall

The organization of drainage and drainage requires special attention. The system ensures the collection and drainage of groundwater, melt and storm water, thereby preventing flooding and erosion of the structure. It can be longitudinal, transverse or combined.

• Transverse drainage requires Ø100 mm holes for every meter of wall.

• The longitudinal option involves placing a pipe located on the foundation along the entire length of the wall. Corrugated pipes are used for these purposes; due to their flexibility, they can be installed in difficult terrain. On straight sections, ceramic or asbestos-cement pipes with holes in the upper part are used.

Retaining walls serve important purposes. Their construction should be entrusted to specialists or at least consulted with them on this issue. The slightest error in calculations can have very dire consequences.